Wednesday, April 25, 2012

A Little About Raising Oysters in Barnstable Harbor


It is said that time and tide wait for no man.  The Barnstable Harbor oyster farmer lives by this credo. Raising oysters in Barnstable Harbor requires visits to the farm several times per week.  Weather permitting.  Tide permitting.  The oysters are located in the northwest portion of Barnstable Harbor, not far from Sandy Neck.  A serpentine approach from Scudders Lane is required in order to avoid grounding the skiff workboat on one of the numerous sandbars encountered en route.

Located in the intertidal area on sandbar, the farm has no water during low tide.  This is the time that they can be shaken, sorted, and cleaned.  Several hours later, the waters reverse their course and  quickly envelop the farm in 12 feet of water,  The water carries with it the microscopic phytoplankton that serve as the oysters’ only food; it is this rush of water that provides our oysters a habitat for optimal growth.

During the almost two years it takes to grow an oyster from 2mm seed to 75mm (3 inch) market readies, the oysters are at the mercy of nature.  Despite being contained in various mesh bags, plastic cages, and wire mesh growout trays, there are the birds, crabs, and a multitude of other sea creatures, all of which enjoy eating baby oysters.  High winds, storm surges, and other acts of nature can and do destoy equipment and scatter the seed as well.  But those that successfully make the journey have a delightfully distinctive sweet saltiness that is sought and savored by oyster afficianados from all four corners of the world!

About Owner and Executive Chef Florence Lowell

Florence Lowell, owner and executive chef of the Naked Oyster Bistro and Raw Bar on Main Street, hails from the Atlantic coast of France, near Bordeaux. It is a region directly across the ocean from the Cape, and it has surprisingly similar beaches, vegetation, and animal life.

She has spent many of the past 30 years in the restaurant business.  From Austin to Houston and, for the past six years, happily ensconced on Cape Cod, Florence brings her extensive knowledge of wine and food to her restaurant. Having spent many summers of her youth in Arcachon, a major center for oyster farming in France, she has embraced the opportunity to farm oysters in the Cape’s beautiful and unspoiled Barnstable Harbor. These oysters, lovingly tended by her and her husband, are regularly brought to the Naked Oyster, where they are featured in both traditional and innovative baked appetizers and opened to order on the halfshell.

Florence is committed to offering classically prepared dishes utilizing fresh and local products.  She works closely with farmers on Cape Cod to bring the best products of the season from the farm to your table at the Naked Oyster, often within hours.  Similarly, seafood is caught by local day fisherman, using traditional long line methods, and brought directly from port to her kitchen whenever possible. 

In the spring of 2011, Florence returned to the kitchen of the Naked Oyster as executive chef.  Her focus is on fresh, robust bistro food that engages the eye and pleases the palate – an artful melding of the traditional with the trendy. No shortcuts here! Sauces may take several days to prepare, as they are simmered and reduced in order to concentrate their subtle flavors.  Organic meats and locally crafted cheeses bring variety to the menu. 

Most of all, Florence embraces the traditional way of the bistro:  Relax, eat, drink!  Enjoy conversation with friends.  Meet people from all walks of life.  Be entertained, satisfied, and leave feeling recharged. 

A votre sante!